…

I’m using this as a computer monitor, not so much as a TV, but I do watch a lot of Blu-Rays and TV shows on Netflix.

I just upgraded to a larger living room, and my old Samsung 46″ CCFL-backlit LCD did not cut it. I couldn’t even read the text on the screen when browsing the web. So I drew up some diagrams, did some trigonometry, and decided that I needed at least a 60 or 65″ TV. Being out of the TV market for several years, I didn’t keep up with all the new features and marketing lingo, so I visited a few big box stores to get information on what all of this new “Smart” features, CMR, micro-dimming, etc. Turns out CMR is just a combined rating of processor speed, micro-dimming, dynamic contrast, and other various stuff. Apparently micro-dimming on Samsungs is all software. Why? Because these babies are all edge-lit. They don’t have “real” local dimming, only “fake” local dimming. That guy working at best buy telling me he could tell the difference between the non-fake microdimming and fake microdimming screen? Ridiculous. All that fancier faster processor does to get you the higher CMRs is make the fake microdimming and automotion plus feature work better. I’m the type of guy who turns this stuff off completely.

The 6300 doesn’t come with the smart remote, which is a bummer because I rather liked that feature. But I wasn’t going to pay 400 extra to get the next model up just to have the remote. In fact, I like the 6300 model more than the 6400, 7100, 7500, or 8000 because of the matte screen. I have a window right behind me, and from various angles other windows coming from the sides, so not having nasty reflections on black screens (or anything that happens to be black on the screen) is a big deal to me. I just don’t like seeing my own face in the middle of a movie.

The menus are very slow, and you have to point the remote directly at the TV, or it will not register your button pressing.

From consumer reports, I’m told that these LED-backlit models don’t have great viewing angle. I disagree. There seems to be very little distortion at 45 degrees away from center.

I don’t like my color settings to be vivid, natural, dark, bright, contrasty, dim, or anything other than “accurate.” So, I googled some calibration settings to 6500K, and after going through that process the picture was… pretty darn good. In case anyone was interested, they are posted below. “Movie mode” apparently changes the color temperature model / white balance mode to 6500K, and from there you can adjust the other settings.

Compared to the high end Panasonic Viera plasmas, this LED-backlit model seems much brighter. Compared to the Sonys, it seemed to have fewer artifacts. Compared to the LGs, it didn’t have as much reflection. Or maybe I’m just biased.

Oh, also apparently this 65″ model only uses about 82 watts. I haven’t verified this with my meter yet, but my old 46″ used about 150 watts. Wow…

Picture Mode Movie
Backlight 16
Contrast 95
Brightness 45
Sharpness 15
Color 50
Tint G50/R50
Advance Settings
Dynamic Contrast Off
Black Tone Off
Flesh Tone 0
RGB Only Mode Off
Color Space Auto
10pt White Balance On
Gamma +1
Expert Pattern Off
xvYCC Off
Picture Options
Color Tone Warm2
Digital Noise Filter Off
MPEG Noise Filter Off
HDMI Black Level Normal (Low if available)
Film Mode Off
Auto Motion Plus Off
LED Motion Plus Off

10pt White Balance

On
Interval Red Green Blue
1 0 0 1
2 -1 0 -1
3 0 0 1
4 -1 0 0
5 -1 0 +1
6 0 -1 -1
7 -1 -1 -2
8 0 2 1
9 +1 0 0
10 +2 0 0

White Balance
Setting Value
R-Offset 25
G-Offset 25
B-Offset 27
R-Gain 19
G-Gain 22
B-Gain 21
Screen Adjustment
Picture Size Screen Fit

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